![]() One notable exception: We sometimes see more powerful laptop processors hit the low 80s during gaming sessions when plugged in, at which point they start throttling back performance. Check your hardware for broken fans or dust build-up, and if you’re overclocking, dial back your settings-especially the voltage if you’ve tweaked it. 80° C to 90° C: Now we’re getting too hot for long-term comfort.If you’re not, definitely check to make sure your fans are working and there aren’t dust bunnies clogging up your system’s airflow. 70° C to 80° C: This is hotter than you want to run unless you’re pushing an overclock.Consider cleaning the dust out of your PC if CPU temperatures continue to creep up over time. 60° C to 70° C: Still running fine, but getting a bit warmer.Instead, follow this general rule of thumb regarding CPU temperatures under load. Running anywhere near that hot regularly is bad for the long-term life of your hardware. We’ve included information on how to do that after the software recommendations below.īut that’s the maximum temperature-the point at which your processor freaks out and shuts down to avoid damage. With that info in hand, you’ll know whether you’ll need to take more active steps to cool things down. Fortunately, several free programs exist that make it easy to see your processor’s temperature. You could dive into your system’s BIOS to find the information, but that’s a lot of hassle to find a simple sensor reading. Melting one of the best CPUs around is always a bummer.īizarrely, Windows doesn’t offer any way to check your computer’s CPU temperature. Keeping tabs on your CPU temperatures is crucial when you’re overclocking your PC’s processor, too-you don’t want to accidentally push the performance pedal too far to the metal when you’re supercharging your pricey 6GHz Intel Core i9-13900KS or AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D, after all. Jails: running 1 iocage jail (Plex) using danb35's script:Īdditional NIC: MELLANOX 10GB CONNECTX2 - MNPA19-XTR Take a look here: A post with Links to useful threadsĬonnected to: two 6Gb/s 24-port 3.Is your computer’s CPU too hot? If your PC starts spontaneously shutting down, locking up, or acting sluggish during intense tasks, overheating could be the issue, especially when the intense summer heat is scorching. Vdev-1 = 4 x 6 TB drives in RAID-z1 (4 WD Gold drives - WD6002FRYZ)īoot pool: 1 vdev with 2 x 40 GB notebook drives in mirror (2 drives total - FUJITSU MHW2040BS) Vdev-0 = 4 x 6 TB drives in RAID-z1 (4 WD Gold drives - WD6002FRYZ) Vdev-1 = 6 x 4 TB drives in RAID-z2 (6 Seagate Exos drives - ST4000NM0115) Vdev-0 = 6 x 4 TB drives in RAID-z2 (6 Seagate Exos drives - ST4000NM0115) Vdev-1 = 6 x 4 TB drives in RAID-z2 (6 Seagate Desktop drives - ST4000DM000-1F2168) Vdev-0 = 6 x 4 TB drives in RAID-z2 (6 Seagate Desktop drives - ST4000DM000-1F2168) HBA: LSI/Broadcom SAS9207-8i, 6Gbps SAS PCI-E 3.0 HBA - flashed to IT Firmware: 20.00.07.00Ĭonnected to: two 6Gb/s 24-port 3.5" mini-SAS expander backplanes (80H10024001A0) 128 GB of 16GB sticks Samsung brand PC3-12800R, DDR3 Registered ECC Processor: Intel Xeon E5-2650 V2, 2.6GHz 8 Core (16 thread) System board: SuperMicro Motherboard X9SRL-F, LGA 2011/Socket R, IPMI For a home NAS, this chassis is huge, able to hold 48 data drives and two boot drives with a couple spaces internally for non-hot-swap drives. The three pools in this one system represent the three NAS systems I had before the consolidation. I have even put together some hardware just to test things out a time or two.įor a while I had three systems, all at once, at home but I am making some hardware changes right now and only one NAS is online. I made some mistakes along the way, learned some and I try to share some of those lessons learned experiences here in the forum. This is the 8th FreeNAS unit I have built for home. This one was built in 2018, but I reused the name from a previous build.
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